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Cosmetics () or make-up are substances used to enhance the beauty of the human body. Cosmetics include lotions, powders, lipstick and many other types of products. Their use is widespread, especially among women in Western countries. The manufacture of cosmetics is currently dominated by a small number of multinational corporations that originated in the early 20th century, but the distribution and sale of cosmetics is spread among a wide range of different businesses.
History The first archaeological evidence of cosmetics usage is found in Ancient Egypt around 4000 BC. The Ancient Greeks and Romans also used cosmetics. The Romans and Ancient Egyptians used cosmetics containing mercury and often lead. In the western world, cosmetics were used throughout the medieval period, although their use was typically restricted to the upper classes. Cosmetics were also used in Persia and what is today the Middle East from ancient periods. After Arab tribes converted to Islam and conquered those areas, in some areas cosmetics were only restricted if they were to disfigure the real look in order to mislead or cause uncontrolled desire. All branches of Islam set a number of rules of thumb relating to purity and cleanness, whether in its physical or spiritual form. For some branches, the general rule is outlined by the Quran: “For Allah loves those who turn to Him constantly and He loves those who keep themselves pure and clean” (2:222). Muhammad also declared: "Allah is Beautiful and He loves beauty." On the other hand, some "fundamentalist" branches of Islam forbid the use of cosmetics. The Taliban, for example, would beat or kill women found to be wearing cosmetics. An early cosmetologist was the physician Abu’al-Qassim al-Zahrawi, or Abulcassis (936-1013 AD), who wrote a medical encyclopedia Al-Tasreef, in 30 volumes, with chapter 19 devoted to cosmetics. As the treatise was translated into Latin, the cosmetic chapter was used in the West. Al-Zahrawi considered cosmetics a branch of medication, which he called Medicine of Beauty (Adwiyat al-Zinah). He deals with perfumes, scented aromatics and incense. There were perfumed stocks rolled and pressed in special moulds, perhaps the earliest antecedents of present day lipsticks and solid deodorants. He used oily substances called Adhan for medication and beautification. During some periods, cosmetic use was frowned upon. For example, in the 1800s, Queen Victoria publicly declared makeup impolite. It was viewed as vulgar and something that was worn by actors and prostitutes. By World War II, cosmetics had common application for all classes, and for the upper classes in nearly all societies. In Japan, geishas wore lipstick made of crushed safflower petals to paint the eyebrows and edges of the eyes as well as the lips. Sticks of bintsuke wax, a softer version of the sumo wrestlers' hair wax, were used by geisha as a makeup base. Rice powder colors the face and back; rouge contours the eye socket and defines the nose. Black paint colours the teeth for the ceremony when maiko (apprentice geisha) graduate and become independent. As of 2006, the cosmetics manufacturing industry is dominated by a small number of multinationals that all originated in the early 20th century. Of the major firms, the oldest and the largest is L'Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Shueller in 1909 as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company (now owned by Liliane Bettencourt 27.5% and Nestlé 26.4%, with the remaining 46.1% are publicly traded). The true market developers were the 1910s American trio Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, and Max Factor. These firms established the market and were augmented by Revlon just before World War II and Estée Lauder just after. The popularity of cosmetics in the 20th century has made the industry multi-billion in stature. Especially in the United States, cosmetics are being used by teens (especially teen girls) at a younger and younger age. Many companies have catered to this expanding market by introducing more flavored lipsticks and glosses, cosmetics packaged in glittery, sparkly packaging and marketing and advertising using young girls. Some social consequences of physical image continuously existing in the spot light have had much attention in the media over the last years. Many fear teens are displaying the physical signs of maturity long before they are mentally and psychologically ready to handle the attention brought forth by their physical image. Small independents, like semi-permanent cosmetics company Lip-Ink International, have attempted to break into the cosmetics market with unique products, but are largely shut out of the major retail outlets. Make-up can be casually, perhaps derisively, referred to as "war paint." Types of cosmetics
Ingredients The Romans and ancient Egyptians used cosmetics containing mercury. The ingredients of modern cosmetics may also surprise those who use them: lipstick, for example, can contain the shimmery substance of fish scales called "pearl essence." Pearl essence is obtained primarily from herring and is one of many by-products of large-scale commercial fish processing. This is rarely used due to the high cost and extreme fragility of this type of colorant. The primary source of the pearlescent shine used in lipsticks, eyeshadows, and blush is mica, a natural, mined mineral. The mica, which is translucent, is coated with a very thin layer of titanium dioxide. This coating causes color to appear through interference effects with the mica; varying the thickness of the titanium dioxide changes the color.* The red color of lipstick can come from iron oxide (rust) or from organic pigments. Typically, the pigment is crushed very finely while being mixed with castor oil. This pigment mixture is then mixed with a wax base to form a finished lipstick. The red color of some eyeshadows is from the dye carmine, made from the crushed bodies of the cochineal insect. This is extremely expensive and is used as rarely as possible. Pure carmine dye is usually more expensive than gold. Cosmetic colorants are highly regulated. In the US, the regulating body is the Food and Drug Administration. Each country or group of countries has their own regulatory agency that controls what can go into cosmetics. Many colorants in cosmetics are also used as food dyes. Pearlescence of solid and liquid mixtures (e.g., lipsticks, shampoos and liquid soaps) is achieved by adding a suspension of tiny flakes of a suitable material, often a wax, e.g., glycol distearate. Some ingredients are totally ineffective, but, when marketed properly, add value to the cosmetic in the mind of the consumer. Placenta is one such ingredient. Placenta is added to, e.g., shampoos because of any number of claims made, such as adding protein, but such claims are scientifically impossible. Other ingredients are added to allow the manufacturer to make misleading statements that appear to be true only because of the addition of a particular ingredient. Aristowax brand wax is one such ingredient. When added to a cream, the Aristowax balls or rolls up as the cream is rubbed into the skin. Misleading claims are then made in the instructions for the use of the product that rubbing the cream into the skin will cause "rough" skin to "roll off." True, skin is always flaking off and some dead skin cells are removed, but it is the Aristowax itself in the product that balls up, not "rough" skin, and the instructions for use lead the consumer to believe that the resulting Aristowax rolls are actually dead skin cells being exfoliated. Another ingredient that makes a product appear to be working is to be found in dandruff shampoos. The shampoos claim to eliminate dandruff. In reality, the ingredient has no effect on dandruff, other than to break the dandruff flakes into smaller pieces that make them much harder to identify. However, in the world of cosmetics, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and since cosmetics are not food products, they are not regulated as tightly, and manufacturers may claim almost anything they wish. Potential dangers There are a few potential dangers regarding the use of cosmetics. One such danger is the use of old mascara. Some mascaras contain an ingredient that breaks down to produce formaldehyde. The formaldehyde prevents the growth of bacteria. Aged mascara, however, may no longer be producing formaldehyde, allowing bacteria to proliferate. Blindness is one possible result if the bacteria-laden mascara gets into the eye. For this reason, it is often recommended to replace a tube of mascara every few months; opinions among experts vary from between three and six. Moreover, formaldehyde is a powerful preservative that may interfere in the natural cleansing and purging functions of one's eyes and eyelids. Other dangers include flammable hairspray, sharing cosmetics with others, possibly spreading disease, and the application of cosmetics while driving, among other dangers. There is a very well-known case of the dangers of cosmetics. Buddy Ebsen was originally cast as the "Tin Man" in the The Wizard of Oz. Aluminum dust was used for "tin" makeup. As the result of an allergic reaction, he was hospitalized and almost died, and Jack Haley replaced him in the movie, only this time the aluminum dust was added to a paste. Image gallery Image:Geisha-kyoto-2004-11-21.jpg|Two geisha in full make-up conversing near the Golden Temple in Kyoto, Japan Image:Jennifer Berry head.jpg|Jennifer Berry, Miss America 2006, wearing make-up, including prominent eye liner and lipstick Image:Deidre Downs.jpg|Deidre Downs, Miss America 2005, wearing make-up, including prominent eye shadow, eye liner, and lipstick Image:Heather French.jpg|Heather French, Miss America 2000, wearing make-up, including eye shadow, lip liner, and lipstick Image:Shauntay Hinton head.jpg|Shauntay Hinton, Miss USA 2002, wearing make-up Image:Kathoy1649.jpg|Kathoeys on stage in Pattaya, Thailand, wearing make-up, including prominent eye shadow, rouge, and lipstick Image:Flickr blonde wigged man crossdressing.jpg|A man dressed as a woman, wearing prominent make-up, including heavy foundation, false eyelashes, eye shadow, rouge, and lip gloss Image:Catherine deneuve2.jpg|Actress Catherine Deneuve at the 2000 Cannes Film Festival wearing make-up, including eye liner and lipstick Image:Milla Jovovich2(cannesBlueCarpet).jpg|Actress and model Milla Jovovich at the 2002 Cannes Film Festival wearing make-up, including lipstick Image:Ellen Roche-saidshjds.jpg|Model Ellen Roche wearing make-up, including eye shadow, mascara, and rouge Image:Camille McDonald.jpg|America's Next Top Model contestant Camille McDonald wearing make-up, including bright eye shadow and lipstick Image:Dance little sister.jpg|Dancer in Yogyakarta, Indonesia, wearing prominent make-up, including eye shadow, eye liner, rouge, and lipstick See also Notes | ||||||||||
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