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Need for brassieres The breasts have very little internal support, being composed largely of adipose tissue (fat). It is believed that the primary anatomical support for the breast is provided by the Cooper's ligaments, with the skin covering the breasts offering some additional support. However, this anatomical support is usually insufficient to hold the breasts up (especially in older women), and to prevent movement of the breasts, which can cause pain and discomfort in some women. Thus the primary reason that is stated for wearing a brassiere or similar foundation garment is to provide external support for the breasts. It is claimed that this increases comfort and mobility, but this is disputed. Bras are believed by some to help preserve the youthful shape of breasts (which naturally sag as women grow older), an opinion which is promoted by bra manufacturers. There is some doubt about this amongst the medical community, and while a woman may choose to wear a bra for comfort or for social reasons, there is no conclusive evidence to support the notion that a woman's breasts will sag lower over her lifetime if she doesn't wear a bra. Some medical professionals believe that wearing a bra can actually increase breast sagging later in life, because the chest muscles that support breasts are used less, and atrophy from lack of use. Health benefits of breast motion and sagging have also been suggested, but not substantiated*; for example, some researchers claim that breast movement, which is restricted by a brassiere, stimulates the lymphatic system and helps remove toxins from the body . Feminist theory frequently depicts bras as symbols of oppression*, as they did the corset in the nineteenth century. An increasing number of women** and health professionals* are challenging traditional values that bras are both medically necessary and socially required, and are adopting bralessness (brafreedom, breast freedom). History
Bra sizes The support given by a bra is highly dependent on the size being correct. A large range of sizes of bra are available to cater for the wide variety in the size of women's breasts and bodies. Bra sizes typically vary in two ways - the volume of the cups , to fit women with different size breasts, and the length of the back strap, to fit women with different size torsos. In order for a bra to perform its function of supporting the breasts adequately, it is essential that the bra fits in both of these ways. There is typically some adjustment in the band size, since bras usually have three or four alternative sets of fastening hooks. The shoulder straps of a bra are almost always adjustable. The size of women's breasts is often expressed in terms of bra size. Measurement systems Many women find that the only accurate way to get the right size is by trial and error with each bra type, and indeed this method is the most reliable. However, there are several methods which may be used to provide an approximate size by measuring alone. Bra sizing systems differ widely between countries, and also between manufacturers, and any system for determining bra size is not without its problems. The size of a bra is commonly described by two values: the band size (a number based on the circumference of the chest at the bust, excluding the breasts), and the cup size (given by a letter, and relating to the volume of the breasts themselves) (e.g. a 30D bra is for a 30-size band and a D-size cup). Band size is usually determined by measuring body circumference either under or above the breasts and then adding a specified amount to account for the fact that the ribcage is generally wider at the height of the breasts than at the point at which one measures. The cup size is worked out from the difference between the band size and a measurement of the chest circumference over the fullest part of the breasts. Cup sizes It is important to note that the actual size of bra cup varies with band size, which may seem counter-intuitive. It might be expected that a 32B bra has the same cup size as a 36B bra, but this is not the case. In fact most bra manufacturers use the same size cup for bras related by an increase in cup size and a decrease in band size - the volume of the actual cups is the same for 30D, 32C, 34B, 36A etc. It is for this reason that bra sizes have "sister sizes" which are related in this way (e.g. 32C and 34B). Although it is important that a wearer has a correctly fitting bra, it is sometimes possible to that two adjacent sister sizes fit equally well, since the cups are the same size, and the difference in band size can be accommodated by fastening the back strap on a different hook. Standard measurement system One common way of determining bra size is described here (all values measured in inches). This method may be considered as the standard system in the UK and U.S., although it is not always accurate. A common cup size system amongst European manufacturers, in order of increasing size, is: AAA-AA-A-B-C-D-DD-E-F-FF-G-GG-H-J, although the use of double letters is not consistent between manufacturers (e,g, some may use EE rather than F, DDD rather than E, etc.). The majority of bra bands run true to size (as in, a size 36 band measures, when stretched, 36 inches). Fitting difficulties Women often find it difficult to find the correct bra size, and many stores have certified bra-fitting specialists who can assist. Some bra manufacturers and distributors state that trying on and learning to recognize a proper fit is the best way to determine a correct bra size, much the same as with shoes. It has been observed that measuring systems such as that described above lead to an incorrect size, which is too big in the band, and too small in the cup. Bras are most commonly available in cup sizes A-DD, and one generally has to go to a specialist lingerie store to find larger cup size bras. The sizing of cup sizes can be confusing, since some manufacturers use multiple letters such as AAA or FF. Variations in sizing The method described above is common, though not universal, and is recommended by many manufacturers. In the United States, various manufacturers and boutiques recommend adding different numbers to the measured circumference to determine band size, generally from 4 to 6 inches. A further complication is that some manufacturers say that when the under-the-bust measurement is 35" (89 cm) or more, only 3" (7.5 cm) should be added to determine the band size. Still others, particularly stores that specialize in specialty sizes, do not recommend adding anything to the size, as the band is meant to fit around the area measured, not higher. Some countries (such as Asian countries) use the metric measurement system rather than the Imperial system used in the UK or the US Customary System used in the US. When metric is used, sizes usually correspond as, for example, 32 in Imperial is a 70 in metric, 34 in Imperial is a 75 in metric, and so on and so forth. In Australia dress size is used instead of band size. Construction and fit A bra usually consists of cups for the breasts, a center panel, and a band running around the body under the bust and a shoulder strap at each side. It is typically made of a fabric such as cotton or lace. The cups for the breasts may be given shape by underwires or plastic reinforcements. The bra is usually fastened with a hook fastener on the band, typically at the back. In some bras the fastener is situated at the front, in between the cups, and others are designed to be pulled on over the head, and have no fasteners at all. Some bras contain padding, designed to improve comfort and provide a more flattering shape — this is sometimes in the form of silicone gel packs. Push up bras, designed to enhance cleavage, usually contain padding. Breast pads or "falsies" are sometimes worn underneath the bra to give the appearance of larger breasts — this requires that the wearer wear a larger size of bra than actually required by her breasts. It is a common misconception that the shoulder straps should bear the weight of the breasts. In fact the strap around the body should provide most of the support; it should be firm but comfortable. As already noted, there is no agreed standard across all manufacturers for measuring and specifying bra size; obtaining the correct size is further complicated by the fact that the size and shape of a woman's breasts fluctuate during her menstrual cycle, and also with weight gain or loss. It is estimated from the result of surveys that over 70% of women in the United Kingdom wear incorrectly fitting bras. This may be partly due to a lack of understanding of how to correctly determine bra size; it may also be due to unusual or unexpectedly rapid growth in size brought on by pregnancy, weight gain, or medical conditions including virginal breast hypertrophy. It is often particularly difficult to find well-fitting bras for large-breasted women due to restricted choice and limited availability. There are, however, an increasing number of companies that specialize in making larger size bras, such as Bravissimo. It is important that a woman's bra fits correctly, both to ensure a flattering shape and to avoid discomfort. Back pain is particularly common among large-breasted women who wear bras offering insufficient support. In extreme cases, such discomfort can lead to a woman seeking breast reduction surgery. An article published in the British Journal of Plastic Surgery (and referenced in an article in the Times Higher Educational Supplement in July 2003) quoted Adam Greenbaum, a specialist registrar in plastic and reconstructive surgery at the Wythenshawe Hospital in Manchester. Greenbaum and colleagues found that in a study of 102 women seeking breast-reduction surgery, all wore an incorrect bra size. "Ill-fitting bras can exacerbate symptoms such as neck and back pain for which women seek breast reduction surgery," he said. This confirms the importance of obtaining a correctly fitting bra, and the fact that many women may be seeking surgery when a correct fitting bra may be the solution to their problem. Types of bra A range of styles of brassieres exist, to be worn in a variety of situations. The degree of support varies between styles, with some being designed from a highly practical point of view, and others to provide a deliberately sexually alluring form. Many bras will fall into more than one category, such as a maternity bra that is also designed to provide the lift that a push-up bra would. Culture Statistics show the average American woman today owns six bras, one of which is a strapless bra, and one in a color other than white. In many Western cultures, it is often considered more noteworthy not to wear a bra. Much of the TV presenter Charlie Dimmock's fame may be attributed to her reputation for gardening without a bra. Similarly, in the late 1960s, Susan Stranks presented the Thames TV children's programme, Magpie, without wearing one, a characteristic not lost on teenage male viewers. Although similar in appearance to the upper part of a bikini, it is not generally considered suitable to expose one's brassiere in public in western cultures, even partially, and to do so is usually considered sexually provocative. Even considering this relative cultural taboo, however, full display of a woman in only her bra is still vastly more socially acceptable than a woman's open display of her bare breasts. As an example of the relative acceptability of bra-only activity, bras have recently been used by operations like breast cancer charities to raise money, either by sponsored walks by women wearing exposed bras , or selling bras owned or decorated by celebrities. While the practice of bra burning is commonly associated with radical feminist demonstrations, especially the protest against the 1968 Miss America pageant, this is actually an urban legend; the protest involved merely filling a trash can with makeup, corsets, and other accoutrements of enforced femininity. A writer for Ms. Magazine coined the term "bra-burning" in order to draw a parallel with the young men who'd burn their draft cards in opposition to the Vietnam War. However, the phrase became a headline and has since been used most often as a term of ridicule by critics of feminism. Etymology The oft-repeated story that the brassiere was invented by a man named Otto Titzling (phonetically, the humorous tit-sling) who lost a lawsuit with one Phillip de Brassiere ("fill up de' brassiere") is an example of an urban myth . Both names are used in a humorous song sung by Bette Midler, and featured in the movie Beaches. The word brassiere derives from bracière, an Old French word meaning "arm protector" and referring to military uniform (bras in French means "arm"). This later became used for a military breast plate, and later for a type of woman's corset. In modern European French, the word for a bra is soutien-gorge, (breast support) and 'brassiere' refers to a baby's vest, although it is sometimes used for the "bra-top" without formed cups. In Quebec, soutien-gorge and brassiere are synonyms. Male Bra Bras may be worn by men as well as women, and is becoming more common as more men are seeking support in the bust-area. This may be because they have protruding breasts necessitating support (for example as a symptom of gynecomastia) or to cover the exposure of nipples. Some bras specifically designed for men have recently been developed; these differ only superficially from the female counterparts. See also | |||||||||||
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